Andhra Pradesh · Tirumala Hills

Tirumala — Śrī Veṅkaṭeśvara

On the seventh of the seven hills of Tirumala stands the most visited shrine in the world. The black-stone deity — Lord Veṅkaṭeśvara, called Bālājī, called the Lord of Seven Hills — was found by sages in an anthill. The sthala-purāṇa tells of His marriage to Padmāvatī, of the loan He took from Kubera the lord of wealth to pay for the wedding, and of the unending stream of devotees who still help Him repay it. The Lord's hair, sold daily as offering, has made Tirumala the wealthiest temple on earth — yet the only one whose deity stands always in debt for love of a bride. His right hand points to His lotus feet: here is the only refuge.

Tamil Nadu · The Island of Two Rivers

Śrī Raṅgam — The Reclining Lord

Between the Kāveri and the Koḷḷidam, on an island the rivers refuse to cover, the Lord lies on the serpent Ādiśeṣa in the largest functioning temple in the world. The Bhāgavata names this as Raṅganātha — the Lord of the stage on which the world's play unfolds. Vibhīṣaṇa, brother of Rāvaṇa, carried the image south from Ayodhyā as the gift of Lord Rāma; he set it down once at Śrīraṅgam to bathe, and Raṅganātha refused to be lifted again. So the southerly Lord stayed, lying on His serpent, His face turned toward Laṅkā so that Vibhīṣaṇa might always see Him from across the sea. Seven concentric prākāras enclose Him, the outermost wide enough to be a city, and at the heart the Lord still smiles in His thousand-year sleep.

Uttarakhand · The Himalayan Throne

Badrīnāth — The Lord Among the Berries

High in the Garhwal Himalayas, where the Alaknanda runs glacial and blue between Nara and Nārāyaṇa peaks, the Lord sits in meditation. The sthala-purāṇa says He chose this place to do tapas for the liberation of mankind, and that Lakṣmī took the form of the badrī tree — the wild jujube — to shade Him through the storms. The image, found in the Alaknanda by Ādi Śaṅkarācārya in the 8th century, is sealed in for six months of the snowed-in winter; when the doors open in late April, the lamp lit by the priest is found still burning. The Bhāgavata names Badrī as the eternal seat of Nara and Nārāyaṇa — the twin sages who are forms of the Lord doing tapas for the world that does not yet know its own name.

Gujarat · The City Beneath the Sea

Dvārakā — The Golden City of Kṛṣṇa

When Mathurā became too dangerous for the Yādavas, Kṛṣṇa asked the sea to give Him land. The sea drew back twelve yojanas. On that ground He raised Dvārakā — golden gates, parapets of crystal, a city of one million houses for Yādava kin, every street fragrant with sandal. He lived there with His queens for a hundred and twenty-five years. When His earthly līlā ended and He left His body beneath a tree near Prabhāsa, the sea — keeping its old promise — rose again and reclaimed the city. Modern divers off the Gujarat coast still find walls and steps beneath the water. The temple that stands today at Dvārakā, the Dvārakādhīśa, was built by Kṛṣṇa's great-grandson Vajranābha over the original sanctum. The Bhāgavata names Dvārakā one of the seven mokṣa-dā purīs — the seven cities whose dust alone is enough.

Odisha · The Lord of the Universe

Puri — Jagannātha

On the Bay of Bengal stands the temple of Jagannātha — the Lord of the universe — flanked by His elder brother Balabhadra and His sister Subhadrā, all three carved of neem-wood with the great round eyes that look at every devotee at once. The sthala-purāṇa tells of King Indradyumna who saw the image of the blue Lord in a dream, of the divine carpenter Viśvakarmā who began the carving on the condition that no one disturb him, and of the king's curiosity that broke the door open too early — leaving the deities unfinished, arms half-formed, the Lord's mouth still wide. Every twelve years the wood is replaced; every June the deities are placed on enormous chariots and pulled by hundreds of thousands through the streets in the Ratha Yātrā. Jagannātha is the Lord who agrees to be incomplete so the world may finish Him with its love.

Kerala · The Lord of Vraja, Reset

Guruvāyūr — The Bhūloka Vaikuṇṭha

When Dvārakā sank, Uddhava the friend of Kṛṣṇa rescued the original image the Lord had worshipped in His own palace — an idol of black stone carrying the four emblems of Viṣṇu. Bṛhaspati (the guru of the devas) and Vāyu (the wind-god) carried it together through the air, looking for a place pure enough to install it; and where they set it down in the lush Kerala plain became Guru-vāyūr, "the place of the guru and the wind." The Lord here is four-armed Kṛṣṇa as a child, eternally smiling, called the Bhūloka Vaikuṇṭha — Vaikuṇṭha on earth. The poet Nārāyaṇa Bhaṭṭatiri, dying of crippling arthritis, composed the thousand-verse Nārāyaṇīyam in this temple — and rose to walk out healed on its last verse.

Rajasthan · The Lord of Govardhana

Nāthadvāra — Śrīnāthjī

The image at Nāthadvāra is the seven-year-old Kṛṣṇa with His left arm lifted to hold up Govardhana, His right hand on His waist. The image — Śrīnāthjī — was found self-revealed on the hill of Govardhana itself, and worshipped there for centuries by the Vallabha sampradāya. When the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb began to break temples in the north, the priests fled south with the Lord in a chariot, vowing to install Him wherever the chariot wheel sank into the earth. At a small Rajasthani village the wheel sank. The village became Nāthadvāra — "the doorway of the Lord." Here the deity is awakened, dressed, fed, sung to, fanned, and put to bed eight times each day in the ritual called the aṣṭa-yāma sevā — for here the Lord is not a king to be petitioned, but a child to be loved.

Kerala · The Reclining Lord of Anantapuram

Padmanābhasvāmī — Thiruvananthapuram

At the southern tip of Kerala, in the city named for Him — Tiruvananta-puram, "the city of the endless one" — the Lord reclines on Ādiśeṣa with a lotus emerging from His navel bearing Brahmā the creator. The image is so large it is darśaned through three doors: the first shows His face and the lotus, the second His abdomen and Śiva-liṅga, the third His feet. The sthala-purāṇa tells of the sage Divākaramuni who fed the Lord (as a small mischievous child) from his own meal; when the child stuffed his mouth with the offered fruit and ran into the forest, the sage chased him — and the child grew into the cosmic reclining form among the trees. The temple's wealth — vaults of gold and jewels added by the Travancore kings, who ruled in His name as His servants — has made it the wealthiest in the world. The kings did not take the title of king; they took only the title Padmanābhadāsa — servant of the Lord of the lotus-navel.

← Return to the codex